This is the eight part of How to Do Carding Series. You can find about Part -1 (Introduction) , Part 2- (How does carding works here) , Part 3 ( How Level 3 Carding Works) and Part 4 (How Account Fraud Happens). In our previous part we talked about chargebacks. In this article we will discuss about warranty fraud and how to choose best card.
A very fun type of virtual carding is warranty fraud. I got some $1000 CPUs from Intel and motherboards from ASUS using that trick. Here’s how it works.
Many companies, especially electronics, offer what is called “advance RMA”. This is a type of warranty replacement where the company sends you the new product first, along with a return box for you to return the defective item to them. They sometimes ask for a credit card number in order to make sure you will return the defevtive item. This is where we can take advantage of the system.
It works will Dell, Intel and ASUS, perhaps a lot of other ones, but they are the ones I have experience with so far. You can PM sellers on eBay to ask for serial numbers of products, or you can simply card a product and request a RMA using its serial number. Call the manufacturer, say that your product is defective (use a diagnostic that makes sure it’s really this product that is faulty, such as “the video card shows nothing on the screen, I tried 2 screens, but it works with other video cards”, and ask if they offer advance RMA, they mostly will. Use a level 2 card and have it shipped to your drop address. If they ask why, just tell them you are on vacation there and your computer broke.
When you receive it, take the package, and disappear. You just got more free stuff using a credit card that will eventually, maybe, get a chargeback, but you get the point.
For Intel, they ask for the 5 lines of text on the CPU itself, and a credit card for hold, so you need to have the unit in your hands for it to work.
For ASUS, the serial number is enough, they require a credit card.
For Dell, it’s the easiest, no credit card needed, just order your free item on the phone without credit card, you just need a name and an address.
Feel free to discover weaknesses in other companies’ systems, this is a relatively new kind of fraud and has not been patched. Many people use that to get free Xbox One from Microsoft. Most companies require that this warranty claim is done over the phone but don’t worry, it’s simple, and most of them don’t seem to care about their job. I had 2 declines when carding Intel, the third one worked like a charm, and they did not even get cocky about it.
You can keep one for yourself and sell the other one on eBay or Craigslist, it’s easy money to make. The point is that they have to try to screen fraud at the same time than offering a seamless experience for legitimate customers. We just abuse the system.
Picking The Best Cards
If you don’t have access to fulls, or you have a CCV autoshop and you want to get the best out of it, there’s a trick that can save you money, if you have a bit of time to invest. It works with any autoshop as long as you can see the name and zip of the cardholder.
First, search by desired BIN. If you like ATOs and you want good cards, BINs 426684 and 438854 work well, but that is up to you. If you can’t search by BIN, just pick Credit Cards from any bank. Once you are in the list, find cardholders corresponding to your gender, and for each one, do the same thing.
Search their name and zip on Backstab or SSNFinder to check if you can find them. Most of time time (>50%), you will not, especially if the cardholder is under 45 years old. So just do the same for the next result. When you have the SSN and DOB of the cardholder, before buying the card, do this thing to double-check the info:
Go on peoplefinders.com and get their background report. Check if the DOBs match, and if the address list matches too, to make sure you have their SSN and DOB 100% accurate. When you are sure, buy the card, and buy SSN and DOB. You now have a fulls. You can go on archives.com or ancestry.org to get their MMN. Here’s how to search;
Card an account on any of those 2 sites (level 2 card is enough, it’s very easy). Get the mother’s name on the background report, and search using her first and last name, and correct date of birth. Search for “marriage” records, if you can’t find any, search “birth” records. If you don’t find anything, try searching for the father’s marriage records. Note that not every state / county has their records made public, so it’s possible that you won’t find it at all; it’s okay, just make one up when you ATO the card.
This way, you can scrub the autoshops and select only the cards where you can have full information. This is my trick to get only good cards. Of course, the best option is to find a fulls vendor, but there are not a lof of them, so escalate your cards the way you desire.
Make sure your cards are well organized. I have included a sample Excel file where you can see how my cards are organized. All cards can be sorted by name, address, number, expiration, DOB, SSN, etc. Look at the file for more information. Also, use line colors for different meanings. Example, white rows mean that the card is mine, and still not used. Call the bank before adding the card to the list, because you want to trash junk cards right away. Yellow means that the card is burnt, and blue means that the card is currently being striked, so I know what to focus on. Green means that I fucked up the cardholder’s credit history using his DOB and SSN. When you look for fulls, look at your Excel file, and with the colors, you can find your card quickly.
Then, just check the balance, study the background report, and you are ready to hit big shops and get stuff at your drop!
This conclude our today’s post. Hope you got some knowledge from this post. To learn more about carding you can see our other post on carding and being updated to the website.